Category Archives: Food

Berry cobbler


We suffered through a stretch of mediocre meals here, but then I made this. And this, dear people of the Internet, can right any wrongs you commit in the kitchen.

This won’t win any beauty contests, though the crimson berries look lovely on a background of vanilla ice cream. When we cut into ours, fruit and juice spilled everywhere. But if you can accept a dessert that’s more Jackson Pollack than Michelangelo, you will be rewarded. The topping has a buttery scone-like texture that is a perfect contrast to the sweet berries.

I’m not big on berries and usually avoid blueberries and blackberries, but I can see making this on a regular basis during the summer. The recipe was adapted on the Orangette blog from “Chez Panisse Desserts” by Lindsey R. Shere. I used raspberries, blackberries and a few strawberries because I am a doofus. Yes, though I’m happy to tell you how to cook, I myself did not read the recipe directions. She advises against using strawberries because their texture will become chewy. Anyway, I think that using blueberries would reduce the liquid in your finished product.

For fruit:
4 1/2 cups berries
1/3 cup sugar
1 to 1 1/2 Tbsp. flour

For cobbler dough:
1 1/2 cups flour
3/8 tsp. salt
1 1/2 Tbsp. sugar
2 1/4 tsp. baking powder
6 Tbsp. cold unsalted butter
3/4 cup whipping cream

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Mix the berries with the sugar and flour, using more flour for juicier berries. Mix the dry ingredients for the cobbler, and then smash in the butter with your hands or a pastry blender. Mix until it resembles course cornmeal. I don’t know why we all still use that cornmeal reference, which seems so old-fashioned. I guess it’s more appealing than “wet sand.” Add the cream and mix just until everything is moistened.

Dump the berries in a 1 1/2 quart baking dish. The original recipe suggests making little biscuits for the top, but I had enough dough to make a solid top. The topping should be about a 1/2-inch thick. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until the topping is golden.

Summer salads — two for the price of one

A couple of years ago, The New York Times ran a collection of 101 salad recipes put together by writer Mark Bittman. That list changed the way I think about cooking. All the recipes require just a few ingredients and minimal cooking (or none!). And they don’t include measurements, so you can feel like a real chef as you sample your salad, add a dash of this or that, and sample again. You can easily assemble two of these salads and call it a meal. Plus, the colors are stunning, like a circus on your plate.

Several weeks ago, I delved into the collection again. I made No. 2 on the list, a tomato and peach salad. Weird, right? It was surprisingly good.

Here’s a rough breakdown of the ingredients:

2 peaches, chopped
2 large tomatoes, chopped
1/2 cup red onion, thinly sliced
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 T cilantro, chopped
juice of 1/2 a lemon (you can also use lime)
olive oil, pepper and salt to taste

Mix it all together and serve.

That little ditty on the right is a roasted corn salad, which we make fairly often in the summer. It’s No. 39 on the list.

Two ears of corn
1/2 cup cherry tomatoes, cut in half
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
juice of one lime
1/2 cup queso fresco or feta cheese
salt and pepper

Cut the kernels off the ears of corn and saute in a skillet with a bit of olive oil for 8 to 10 minutes. Toss with remaining ingredients and serve.

(Pardon Eleanor’s reach.)

Mayo-free tuna sandwiches

Do you prefer tuna sandwiches or peanut butter cookies? I agree.

But I’m in mourning, and writing about cookies still feels unseemly, so I’ll start with tuna. As some of you know, I don’t like mayonnaise, a flaw that I expect will doom my aspirations of becoming a restaurant reviewer. Mayonnaise shows up everywhere. Sure, some places try to disguise it with fancy names like aioli, but I’m onto that trick. And it’s nearly impossible to find a tuna sandwich without mayo, so when I stumbled across a good one a few years ago, it fell into my regular cooking rotation.

This Gourmet recipe from Epicurious is wonderful because it uses some dressed-up beans to add flavor and a creamy texture. You don’t have to be precise about the measurements. I usually halve the amount of tuna because I like equal parts beans and tuna, but you can follow the recipe if you want just a thin layer of beans. And I know this all looks really healthy, but it tastes so good that you won’t mind.

For the beans:

1 (14- to 15-oz) can cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or basil
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper

For the tuna:

2 (6-oz) cans tuna in oil, drained
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil or flat-leaf parsley
1/4 cup pitted Kalamata or other brine-cured black olives, finely chopped
1 celery rib, finely chopped
2 tablespoons finely chopped red onion
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper

Mash the beans and stir in the other listed ingredients. Mix the tuna with the remaining ingredients. Assemble on bread. So easy it hardly needs instructions.

(Pre-smoosh.)